The Cheryl Cole of Fish Pies

I may be risking political incorrectness here, forgive me, but I think this recipe is what would happen if you took the most celebrated Girl Aloud and recreated her in fish pie form. Fish pie is a salt-0f-the-earth, populist meal. But this recipe takes a simple, everyday pie and coiffes, glosses and preens it to levels of sophistication and beauty that cause jaws to drop.

This is diva-style cooking that involves fiddly processes and too many pans. The first time I made it, I nearly burst into tears of frustration half way through and had to call help in the form of A who came armed with wise counsel and dish cloths.

So let's be clear, I found this recipe daunting. But, the drama and tantrums did pay off in the end; it's a show-stopper and worthy of being served as a posh dinner with a bottle of champagne.
It comes from 'Fish Etc' by Mark Hix, chef director of Le Caprice, The Ivy and J Sheekey. He suggests flavouring the potato topping with more cheese, herbs or saffron. Sounds good to me!

Ingredients
1kg floury potatoes
500ml fish stock
2 tbsp dry vermouth
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 fennel bulb, cored and sliced
250g white fish fillets such as cod or haddock, skinned and cut into 3cm chunks
175g salmon fillet, skinned and cut into 3cm chunks
150g peeled raw prawns (optional)
2 tbsp chopped mixed herbs, such as parsley, dill and chives
A little milk
20g fresh white breadcrumbs
20g grated Parmesan
30g butter

Sauce:
50g butter
50g plain flour
175ml double cream
2 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp anchovy essence
Salt and freshly ground white pepper

Method
1. Preheat the oven to 180 degrees
2. Boil the potatoes in their skins for about 20 mins or until tender. Drain and leave to cool slightly
3. Meanwhile, in a large pan, bring the stock and vermouth to the boil, add the onion and fennel, and cook gently for 8 minutes. Add the fish and prawns and poach gently for 2 minutes. Drain, reserving the cooking liquid and leave to cool.
4. To make the sauce, melt the butter in a heavy-based pan over a low heat, stir in the flour and cook gently for a minute. Gradually add the reserved fish cooking liquid, stirring till it has all been incorporated and the mixture is smooth. Bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the cream and simmer for 10 minute or so until thick. Stir in the mustard and anchovy essence. Season with white peper and leave to cook for 15 minutes.
5. Fold the fish, prawns, fennel and onion into the sauce with the herbs. Spoon into a large pie dish filling to 3cm below the top. Leave to set for 30 minutes.
6. Peel the potatoes. Mash with the butter and just enough milk to get a soft consistency. Season and spoon or pipe onto the fish mixture.
7. Bake for 20 minutes. Scatter on the breadcrumbs and Parmesan and bake for 10-15 minutes me until golden. Serve piping hot with loads of peas.